I slept better last night than I have yet. I guess I am getting used to sleeping on the ground, but those hot water bottles were awesome. The night was a little warmer I believe. Today we are supposed to carry our heavy outer wear pants for wind mitigation. We may not use them, but Liberate said to carry them so I will. Mornings are always about shuffling things between duffle and pack. The coffee arrives at 6:30 and is always a welcome sight. The bowl of warm water arrives a half hour after coffee. The routine is beginning to feel familiar and sets the morning pace.
At breakfast Mike and June announced they were not proceeding to Lava Camp. I figured as much since Mike is cold and not sleeping. I like them and wish them well. However I must call it like it is: They set themselves up for failure by not training at all.
So we waited for more than half and hour after breakfast and the crew finally sent us down the trail with Thaddeus while Liberate and EJ made the arrangements to get Mike and June evacuated. We set a brisk pace and Liberate caught up less than an hour later. The pace was refreshing. The first two days we were constantly being passed by groups of hikers. With Liberate leading we passed another group for the first time. As the morning progressed we passed one group after another. It was exhilarating to be moving at a good click. I was sweating good for the first time. Our trail wound through the Alpine desert zone. It is a lunaresque landscape jotted with boulders and sparse vegetation. The crooked trail weaves gradually upward through the boulders. We are passing a lot of other hikers now. It feels great!
We made really good time and arrived at Lava camp in 4 hours instead of the expected 5 or 6. We climbed about 3000 feet to 15,200 feet in elevation in 10.2 kilometers. We arrived in camp in early afternoon. The dining tent seemed larger with just the two of us. The afternoon sun cast an orange glow as it warmed the dining tent. Warmth is a precious commodity on Kilimanjaro so we lingered over quite conversation until the bath water was ready. Since it was warm I decided to wash my hair. It is a challenge to wash your hair with just a bowl of water but may be the last opportunity for 5 days. It felt good to be cleaner. I would say clean but that would not be true. You are never really clean here, just cleaner. I dressed in my dry camp clothes and set up the tent for a nap. My headache is gone today but my whole body aches. It is a good ache, one that comes from honest physical exertion.
We had afternoon tea and listened to a little music. Lisa and I are more alike than we realized. We are about the same age and have had similar difficulties in life. She is married, from Boston and has a big house there. She invited Trish and I up to stay there. That was very kind of her. Liberate came in and announced it was time for the safety equipment briefing. Thomson does a great job on medical supplies. They had various pharmaceuticals to treat many afflictions encountered on the mountain. They have bandages and casting supplies, an oxygen bottle and a Hyperbaric chamber. He and the medic demonstrated them all.
As we exit the dining tent the summit looms above us. Behind us is the lava tower, a rock structure about 5 stories high. I can climb it if I want but I am too tired. I only have time to get my bottles for hot water before dinner is served. The inside of the dining tent is shown below.
Dinner is served and I am too tired to eat. Loss of appetite is a symptom of altitude sickness and the guides watch you for that. I force myself to eat. After dinner, Liberate chats for a while, telling us about the next day: what to wear; what to put in our backpacks; what trails we will take and how long to expect to be on the trail. Then it is on to the dreaded health check. I am 105 heartrate and 82% oxygen. He seems pleased since we are above 15,000 feet. He also asks how we feel to see if we are capable of continuing.
I feel good other than being weary from so much physical work to hike the trails. Every part of your body is tired from exertion. You use your feet, legs, back, hands and arms to move along. Up, down, left, right the trails winds and you plant your pole and push, twist your back, step up, grab an outcrop, step down, catch your balance... you get the idea. Oh, and you do this endlessly for hours at a time. It is some of the most strenuous trails I have ever hiked. I tell myself if it was easy everyone would do it. I am here to find my limits and surpass them: physical, mental, emotional, spiritual.
They bring me two liters of boiling water and I head to my tent. I stuff one down by my feet and set the other in the space my back will be. I change into long johns because it is bitterly cold tonight. The wash water was left by my tent and is freezing. The hot water's warmth is welcome as I slide into the bag.
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